How To Clean Lip Of Tub From Old Mastic

07-30-2012, 02:48 PM

Hello - I am new here. This is such a nifty site!

We are working on a bath renovation and would similar to use MTI's Andrea six tub. It will be a shower/tub combo in a 3-walled alcove. Nosotros are having the tile flange mill installed.

My question is, how to achieve an installation like the attached picture, where the forepart tiled confront is flush with the front lip of the tub? I want the tile to come straight down from the edge of the tub.

I accept been told that the front end edge needs to be framed with a 2x4, then 1/2" cement board, then thinset and tile. Resulting in a tiled lip jutting out on the forepart face. I am concerned this will upshot in a very wide step into the shower each morn. Is at that place another choice?

The width of the front tub curb is 3.5 inches.

Cheers so much for your help!

07-30-2012, 04:31 PM

Welcome John.

Quote:

Originally Posted past John

I take been told that the front end edge needs to be framed with a 2x4, then 1/2" cement lath, and then thinset and tile.

This'll work if you reduce the 2x4 depth by the backer boar + tile + thinset (virtually i/8 or and so). Make sure afterwards you're done that the tub rim is solidly supported.

07-30-2012, 09:16 PM

Welcome, John.

Y'all practise empathize that tub is non designed to exist used equally a shower and you'll need to order it with a special improver tiling flange to make that work, yep?

07-xxx-2012, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CX

Yous practice understand that tub is non designed to be used as a shower and you'll need to order it with a special add-on tiling flange to make that work, yes?

Heh..

Quote:

Originally Posted by HalfwayHandy

We are having the tile flange factory installed.

correct in the first postal service...

Oooh ooh!! I got-em on somethin

07-thirty-2012, 09:22 PM

Not really all that difficult to exercise, John. Thank you for the correction.

I remember you'll find my showtime fifty chiliad posts were almost perfect.

07-thirty-2012, 09:23 PM

Its possible I think (depending on the tub) to practice what you want. But your gonna have to be pretty close on your measurements. Its gonna be a PITA
Probably why you been told

Quote:

I have been told that the front edge needs to be framed with a 2x4, and so ane/2" cement board, then thinset and tile

Perchance just nobody wants to make the attempt...
Like said higher up, check the tub. I did a chore for some friends a few months ago and their tub was straight plenty that I think I "could" have gotten away with it, but then I "didn't desire to make the effort"

07-30-2012, 09:31 PM

is this a real moving-picture show or is it photoshopped? One would think there would be water stains all over that side wall.

And who puts carrera marble with 1950's paneling?

07-31-2012, 10:26 AM

Thanks everyone for your advice.

Dana, that was going to be my estimate, that the 2x4 width needs to be reduced. But I think the tricky role is from you lot side by side sentence - making sure the tub rim is solidly supported.

Could extra strength be achieved with more vertical framing supports? How strong does the front rim actually need to be?

What if I'm having a glass shower door/tub screen installed on height of the front rim? Would the extra weight alter anything?

Yous take all been very helpful. Thanks.

07-31-2012, 12:47 PM

John,

The lower edge of the rim, that touches the tile - does Non support the tub at all. There should be a caulked expansion articulation there. Yous'll need to support the tub edge under the flat part of the tub. I'll try drawing it without looking like I used my pes to push button the mouse around.

07-31-2012, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted past John

Could extra strength exist achieved with more than vertical framing supports? How strong does the forepart rim really demand to be?

Ahhhh, this is the crux of your pattern. Supporting under the base of the tub, the office yous stand on, comes first and is the like shooting fish in a barrel part. The rim also needs to be solidly supported and so that it doesn't flex when sitting or leaning on it. Information technology'due south non easy to become information technology supported with the tile edge, but that is what your pattern requires.

The quantity of 2x4 won't brand a divergence, every bit they're set back from the edge so the tile can remain affluent.

What yous're finding out, is exactly why we typically don't recommend this design due to the difficulty getting the rim supported properly. It tin can be done, however, but the top edge of your tile must be wide enough and flat enough to do the supporting.

At present that you're up to speed, I recommend you not doing what you propose. Allow the wall to come up out a bit and cap information technology with backerboard & tile. Information technology'll be much easier and support volition be far ameliorate. You don't need much, only a inch or 2 will practice.

07-31-2012, 06:09 PM

Thanks once more, everyone. That diagram really helped likewise!

I feel like I can now make an informed decision about our course of activity.

Had a great experience on johnbridge.com and will be dorsum again someday.

07-31-2012, 06:55 PM

Sounds similar you are wanting to employ this tub for a tub surround, hence ordering it with wall lip and the questions at the shower door.

Almost tub doors that I accept seen are mounted to the wall. The top track residuum on the sides. The piece on the tub is silicones in identify. If that holds true, the tub deck would not be supporting the weight of the door. If you are still in the framing stages, add some solid backing for that door. A 2x6 turned sideways works very well. Gives a nice wide mounting point. With that lower door frame in place on the tub, I doubt besides many people will notice it very comfortable for sitting on. Do you accept enough cleanse to plough you 2x4 framing side means and then that the top piece will fit upward against the lesser of the outer edge like Paul shows in his drawing?

07-30-2012, 04:31 PM	#2
builder, anti-builder, rebuilder -- Retired Moderator Join Engagement: Mar 2009 Location: oahu Posts: 13,164	Welcome John. Quote: Originally Posted past John I take been told that the front end edge needs to be framed with a 2x4, then 1/2" cement lath, and then thinset and tile. This'll work if you reduce the 2x4 depth by the backer boar + tile + thinset (virtually i/8 or and so). Make sure afterwards you're done that the tub rim is solidly supported. __________________ dana "the road to hell is paved with osb, mastic, pre-mixed latex 'grout' or 'thinset', "

07-30-2012, 10:10 PM	#ix
builder, anti-builder, rebuilder -- Retired Moderator Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: oahu Posts: 13,164	Whether your tub is directly, curved, circular, square or oval or any other shape. The method described will piece of work. You might wanna consider adding waterproofing or moisture proofing to that wall. __________________ dana "the road to hell is paved with osb, mastic, pre-mixed latex 'grout' or 'thinset', "

07-31-2012, 10:26 AM	#ten
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2022 Posts: 3	Thanks everyone for your advice. Dana, that was going to be my estimate, that the 2x4 width needs to be reduced. But I think the tricky role is from you lot side by side sentence - making sure the tub rim is solidly supported. Could extra strength be achieved with more vertical framing supports? How strong does the front rim actually need to be? What if I'm having a glass shower door/tub screen installed on height of the front rim? Would the extra weight alter anything? Yous take all been very helpful. Thanks. __________________ John

07-31-2012, 01:44 PM	#12
architect, anti-builder, rebuilder -- Retired Moderator Bring together Engagement: Mar 2009 Location: oahu Posts: 13,164	Quote: Originally Posted past John Could extra strength exist achieved with more than vertical framing supports? How strong does the forepart rim really demand to be? Ahhhh, this is the crux of your pattern. Supporting under the base of the tub, the office yous stand on, comes first and is the like shooting fish in a barrel part. The rim also needs to be solidly supported and so that it doesn't flex when sitting or leaning on it. Information technology'due south non easy to become information technology supported with the tile edge, but that is what your pattern requires. The quantity of 2x4 won't brand a divergence, every bit they're set back from the edge so the tile can remain affluent. What yous're finding out, is exactly why we typically don't recommend this design due to the difficulty getting the rim supported properly. It tin can be done, however, but the top edge of your tile must be wide enough and flat enough to do the supporting. At present that you're up to speed, I recommend you not doing what you propose. Allow the wall to come up out a bit and cap information technology with backerboard & tile. Information technology'll be much easier and support volition be far ameliorate. You don't need much, only a inch or 2 will practice. __________________ dana "the route to hell is paved with osb, mastic, pre-mixed latex 'grout' or 'thinset', "

07-31-2012, 06:09 PM	#14
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2022 Posts: 3	Thanks once more, everyone. That diagram really helped likewise! I feel like I can now make an informed decision about our course of activity. Had a great experience on johnbridge.com and will be dorsum again someday. __________________ John

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07-30-2012, 09:16 PM	#4
Moderator emeritus Join Engagement: Jul 2001 Location: Boerne, Texas Posts: 94,695	Welcome, John. Y'all practise empathize that tub is non designed to exist used equally a shower and you'll need to order it with a special improver tiling flange to make that work, yep?

07-xxx-2012, 09:20 PM	#5
Registered User Join Date: Mar 2022 Location: Prince Rupert BC Canada Posts: 2,144	Quote: Originally Posted by CX Yous practice understand that tub is non designed to be used as a shower and you'll need to order it with a special add-on tiling flange to make that work, yes? Heh.. Quote: Originally Posted by HalfwayHandy We are having the tile flange factory installed. correct in the first postal service... Oooh ooh!! I got-em on somethin

07-thirty-2012, 09:22 PM	#half dozen
Moderator emeritus Bring together Date: Jul 2001 Location: Boerne, Texas Posts: 94,695	Not really all that difficult to exercise, John. Thank you for the correction. I remember you'll find my showtime fifty chiliad posts were almost perfect.

07-thirty-2012, 09:23 PM	#7
Registered User Join Date: Mar 2022 Location: Prince Rupert BC Canada Posts: 2,144	Its possible I think (depending on the tub) to practice what you want. But your gonna have to be pretty close on your measurements. Its gonna be a PITA Probably why you been told Quote: I have been told that the front edge needs to be framed with a 2x4, and so ane/2" cement board, then thinset and tile Perchance just nobody wants to make the attempt... Like said higher up, check the tub. I did a chore for some friends a few months ago and their tub was straight plenty that I think I "could" have gotten away with it, but then I "didn't desire to make the effort"

07-31-2012, 06:55 PM	#15
Tile Contractor Central Ky Expanse Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 1,840	Sounds similar you are wanting to employ this tub for a tub surround, hence ordering it with wall lip and the questions at the shower door. Almost tub doors that I accept seen are mounted to the wall. The top track residuum on the sides. The piece on the tub is silicones in identify. If that holds true, the tub deck would not be supporting the weight of the door. If you are still in the framing stages, add some solid backing for that door. A 2x6 turned sideways works very well. Gives a nice wide mounting point. With that lower door frame in place on the tub, I doubt besides many people will notice it very comfortable for sitting on. Do you accept enough cleanse to plough you 2x4 framing side means and then that the top piece will fit upward against the lesser of the outer edge like Paul shows in his drawing?

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